Day one on the ground in Osaka. Landed at Itami this morning, dropped the bags, and went straight to Nishinari with NHK's Hiro Noguchi for an old-school takoyaki crawl. Five stops total — here's part one.
Ichifuku (一富久)
📍 大阪市西成区花園南1-9-31
🕐 11:00–21:00, closed Mon/Tue 📞 06-6657-0225
It's the type of place that you feel like you're going to visit your grandma's home. Or someone's grandma. Even if you didn't have a grandma you're immediately welcomed by the warmest staff. The takoyaki here is superb. Crafted from scratch using a fresh dashi made out of Hana Katsuobushi and Kombu. Using fresh dashi is a rare sight. So rare that I urge you to go. This place is a must eat. Also don't skip on their takoyaki soup — yuzu peel and mitsuba added. Ichifuku is a legend.
Daun Taun (Downtown) — a Nishinari must
📍 大阪市西成区千本北1-11-38
📞 06-6658-5420 🕐 12:00–20:30 daily
¥400 for 12 pieces. Downtown is a relic in the Nishinari area. Now by all means don't discriminate on Nishinari. It is quite fine and homey. I love it there. So many shops from Showa era and Downtown reflects it. The batter is a bit eggy and they also make their soup stock the old school way just like Ichifuku. Katsuo Kombu dashi. Nice size of octopus. Apparently there used to be a supermarket and two takoyaki stores located in its location and the lines were out the door. But that was a thing of the past. It's quite sad — but I will definitely be back to Downtown! There is sitting space for maybe 4 in this tiny tiny place. But what makes up for size age and seclusion is a ton of soul. Highly recommended. Also — their sauce had a thin coating but was very addictive. They use a fine katsuo fish powder instead of the huge flakes you see on modern takoyaki.
Part 2 — Haru, Aizuya, the old school of downtown Osaka and Collectons in Honmachi, a shokunin takoyaki-shi's never ending pursuit for greatness — coming next.